Great Day, Runny Night

We have just returned from a top adventure out to Lake Titicaca–the highest commercially navigable lake in the world at 3,812 metres above sea level. Titi means Puma and you can see from this link how the lake actually looks like a puma chasing a rabbit from above (just like the way Orion looks like a guy holding his sword).

It is amazing how many inca derived tribes still exist there living seemingly traditional lifestyles untouched by modern conveniences (but more on that later).

The first stop on the lake was the island of Uros. These special islands are made from reeds. No land, just reeds, floating around the lake. Each island sustains around 12 families each. The Uros people eat the reeds, sleep on the reeds and even make special boats from the reeds. Walking on the island is like walking on a giant inflatable dingy.

We are pleased to report that we have taken instruction on how to build said islands and will be commencing construction on Lake Ginninderra on our return. The main benefit of living on a floating island in Peru is the exemption from paying taxes. Do you think John Stanhope will extend us the same privilege?

The next port was the island of Amantani. This is where we had our homestay with a local couple. Here we had the chance to participate in a fiesta complete with traditional costumes and bonfire. We have acquired some fancy new dance moves from our "mother" which we can impart on our return.

Everything was going swimmingly..........until.....

It was on our return trip up the steep path back to our homestay on the hill that Matthew felt something brewing from within. This was not good news because as we foreshadowed earlier in this entry, the islands of Lake Titicaca, while beautiful, are not furnished with modern conveniences we take for granted.

It must be said that the outhouse was of decent construction, but after several visits throughout the night, Matthew can now give you a full description of its function.

Suffice to say, after 24 hours of unpleasantness he is now on the mend and now rearing to tackle the 4850 metre mountain passes of our Lares Trek which will start on Sunday morning.

We´ll tell you all about it when we get back!

I'm so dizzy, my heading is spinning. Like a whirlpool.....

Please forgive any seeming incoherence in today's entry. We are both feeling the light-headed effects of altitude as we blog from a computer terminal 3827 metres above sea level give or take a stairwell.

Yesterday we took a tour of downtown Lima, the first opportunity we'd had to do so having previously been too scared to hail a taxi from Miraflores into Centro Lima. When we finally did our fears were fully realised. As you can imagine indicating is optional and the lines are just are just rough suggestions. The cab drivers seem to have a mystical power that allows them to conjure up the space for three cars where my driving experience would tell you only two (maybe one and a half), kind of like Jesus with the loaves and fishes. I guess that is one of the advantages of living in a 98% devout catholic country.

Centro Lima itself is very colonial European and is well worth a look. Very large squares with central statues of local conquerors/liberators. We had the whole how many horses legs in the air vs did he die in battle debate, which I think is just an urban legend anyway.

The highlight of the area is Franciscan chapel which houses religious art with a Peruvian twist (with Jesus feasting on Guinea pig in the portrayal of the last supper) as well as the bones of 25,000 Limoleans bodies that have rested in communitas for hundreds of years in the church catacoombs before the existance of cemetaries in the city. The absolute highlight of the visit was the "harry potter-esque" library complete with spiral staircase and dusty books dating from the 1600's.

So we're now in the lovely Puno among the Quechan people in their colourful outfits and very spiffy headwear. Matthew has purchased a local hombre style hat. Of course this purchase was first preceeded with the trying on of the hat for the seniorettas, much to the amusement of the vendor whom was unaware of Matthew's penchant for such apparal. In any case he is now working on a serious mo to complement the outfit. He was very chuffed because our local guide assumed he was Latino and started speaking to him in Espanol! Only after she regaled him with what seemed like her life story did he regretfully own up to not understanding a word she said.

Tomorrow we head out to the islands on Lake Titticaca that are man-made from reeds. We'll have a homestay there and really get amongst the locals. Think of us heading to the out-house in the middle of the night, floating along in the darkness.

What Happens on Tour Stays on Tour

Unless you read it on our blog of course!

We have just spent our first day in Lima. Well almost a first day because we got to the hotel at 2am last night and then slept until 1pm today. We are not as lazy as you think though, we had to fly via LA which means we were in the air for 22hrs plus 5 hours in line for US customs after filling in our¨were you ever in the Nazi party?¨ questionnaire. Then when Matt got pulled up on the national security watch list he couldn´t sit down for the first 5 hours of the Peru leg.

Lima is an attractive city and we´ve enjoyed spending today just people watching. Meredith is also making a mental list of all the alpaca yarn shops we have to visit on our return in a couple of weeks.

Our phrase book is getting a good workout, the only slip up was ordering 3 main meals at the restaurant tonight—and we couldn´t work out why she was looking at us like we were greedy pigs! She didn´t say anything, maybe she thought we were looking for a super-sized American meal!

There is no sign of the earthquake except for a relief effort drive being run from the centre of town. There were also a few aid workers on our flight to Peru as well as many red cross teams at the airport.

Tomorrow we are going to head to check out the coast and a monastery with some good catacombs. Real skulls have been promised!